Ok, so any transfer that relies on surface adhesion should be done on a gloss surface. Here's how I do it: Preshading - coloring - first clear coat gloss - decals - second clear coat gloss (or semigloss) - weathing, e.g. I just tried it, and it was the best decal solution I'd ever used, up until the excess ate through the gloss lacquer varnish, and the acrylic paint beneath the varnish. what is the best way to prevent a foggy finish from appearing behind the decal? Microset is applied to the surface of the model with a brush, before placing the decal. Any help would be great! I epoxied the bare wood and put down 2 coats of Spar varnish before deciding to put the decal down. So before you add decals, blast it with some gloss varnish. Make sure this varnish layer is completely dry before you follow the below decal application steps. My question is, should I install the new decal before paint protection is done or afterwards. 2020 Jeep Gladiator Mojave, Hydro Blue Pear, riding on 35s. Some people like to varnish the model before applying decals. Wait until the wood surface is dry before continuing with the process. Clear coating helps to protect the decal from peeling, cracking or sustaining other damage from exposure to the elements. This Imperial Knight for Warhammer 40k is a good example of using a varnish for enhancing the overall display quality of high-contrast models. The excess film can be removed after applying the water. When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. Before installing the decals, spray a gloss varnish protects the paint surface and allow a better grip of the decals. Placing your decal into too warm/hot water can over activate the adhesive making it feel a bit slimy and you decal paper a bit flimsy. After future dries, the silvering should be gone. 6. If it can be easily removed without sticking or lifting up the paint, then the shelf is sufficiently cured. It is also beneficial to apply liquid decal film if you decals have been sitting for more than 2 years after receiving. After decals have been applied and everything has dried completely (24 to 48 hours) you can apply a dull or flat finish safely such as Testors dull coat lacquer or Polly Scale clear flat. Years ago, I took my favorite family photographs and put them on a small coffee table. Applying a varnish, gloss or otherwise, before adding decals doesn't make a difference. Any tips or suggestions are welcome. After we have finished the painting, we have to varnish it. As you come to the end of a scale model build, you often have a few decisions to make – do you go for a polished finish, or a more weathered look? And much more! Most have been replicated in modern pressure-sensitive from, but varnish transfers are still in circulation. You can use a pair of scissors to cut out the decal, but you may find that a hobby knife is better suited to the task. Make sure that the model surface is dry/clean and free from any dust particles or fingerprints. Attention: always check that the image is positioned correctly before you slide it off the backing paper completely so that it does not stick to your finger, crease or even tear. Hello! She was able to locate online a source for piano decals and asked if we could replace the decal with the proper one. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better. The second layer seals the decals. So, I bought Mig's gloss varnish and Idk when to apply it. If the paint is just days old, besides the paint messing up, the graphic may not stay adhered to the surface. I always recommend a coat of gloss clear or Future on the model before applying decals. 3. If you would like to thicken the decal film before applying you may use Microscale Liquid Decal Film to do so. Below is an overview of the decal process, so give it a read and get your models looking as incredible as possible! So the first secret of applying decals is just to paint the surface beneath them. I am considering putting a coat of varnish on first to seal the wood then apply 2 or 3 coats after the decal has been applied. Despite being raised it looks great. Using a cooler temperature water such as room temperature or lukewarm water is ideal for a better outcome. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better until you are happy that you have it in the correct position. Best Christmas Gift Ideas for Craft Lovers Sticker adhesives are often too powerful to remove without the help of powerful cleansers that can damage underlying surfaces. Remember that your finish is not paint and so you do not want to shake it. I prefer not to varnish before applying decals. If you are more of a traditionalist, and an array of decals is provided with your model kit, chances are you’ll use them. 3) There are special products to help make the decals go onto the surface better. And for good reason. Any thoughts on how successful this would be. Shaking it will likely result in air bubbles which will ruin the application. Using your first paint brush, paint the first decal solution onto the scale model, on the point where you intend to stick the decal. It has no tooth, so its no good for weathering powders, but it's critical for use with oil or … At this point care must be taken to not dis- solve the varnish that is underneath the decal. Test the shelves after the paint cures for two weeks. I've completely painted my miniatures and has finished basing/painting my bases. Do you keep the traditional colour scheme, or go for something more artistic and original? Let it dry overnight. Once the decal is set, let the whole thing cure for a day or two. Once the decal has been cut and peeled from its backing sheet, carefully place the decal into position on the model, then gently press into place, forcing out any air bubbles as you go along. (available at most craft/art or hardware stores). It's best to apply gloss to the whole model after painting your colour coat (and any painted chips), but you can get away with just applying gloss to the decal areas. • Prepare the surface: Decals adhere better to gloss or semigloss finishes. If you plan on multiple layers I'd maybe go for spray rather than brush. The peel-and-stick method of decal application works well with smaller decals on easy-to-reach areas, such as your car window. You may be advised not to have fluoride varnish at all, or to stop taking the other supplement for a few days after the varnish is applied. I do before and after, although I just use Tamiya cans. John O: posted 03-20-2005 06:36 PM ET (US) jaccoserv, You are right about the decal being raised. I would say it can’t hurt, but I don’t know for sure, it is just a hunch. If the paint is 'sealed' by a graphic before this can happen, undesired results can occur. Thnx . I know to gloss varnish the model before applying as the decals apply much better. The decal has one coat of varnish on it now and will get 2 more coats. Note that the new decals are self-adhesive and are supplied on a backing paper from which they peel easily and on their surface is "Application Tape" which you do not remove until after they are applied. Always wear soft clean shoes, you don't want to mark the timber before you varnish it. Decals are cheap, try it on a spare decal to see the affect. • Trim excess carrier film: Some decal images have an excess of carrier film outside the image area. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the modelmakers community. chopnhack. I ask this because apparently Tamiya panel liner and other very thin solutions have the possibility to slip under decals, creating air pockets. Successful application of the original type English varnish transfers requires timing and attention to detail. I want my decals to look “painted-on”. But, adding a varnish on a small model at this point could also obscure surface detail. ie. Free Member. Decals on a gloss surface, and then gloss over it for washes and weathering. I intend applying a final spray coat of gloss either way. Always make sure that the floor is clean and dry before starting to varnish. Use a foam brush. Tip: If you notice air bubbles beneath your decal once it is dry, use a pin to prick small holes in it. Gloss to help the decals, then another gloss to blend in the decals, then multiple flat coats depending on how flat I want it. 584 202. Help - General. This will set it firmly. The idea is that the decal will stick much better to a smooth (glossy) surface than a matte one. Once the decal is in place, carefully warm the area with the hairdryer to make the decal soft so that you can push out any creases or bubbles that may have appeared. Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. - then after I remove the tape from the edge of the headstock, sand the edge flush and bring my Tru-oil finish up to the edge that I have created. If you need to paint, but are unable to remove existing decals from the surface you are working on, paint over the stickers, using the proper techniques. I'm just getting back into the hobby after ~10 years, and I'd only ever used Microset and Microsol before. This type of decal is generally printed onto a vinyl sheet that has a backing. report. Definitely expect to weather post decal application, to one extent of another. It looked like this before the van was in my possession: It looked like this when I got it: After a few hours with Goo Gone, plastic razor blades, quick detailer, a clay bar and patience: I got all of the residue off but there is a very faint ghost image in the paint: I darkened the photo slightly to show the outline. Use a fresh hobby knife blade to cut as close to the artwork/lettering as you possibly can, so there is little or none of the unwanted clear vinyl that the self-adhesive decal is printed on. share. Make sure this varnish layer is completely dry before you follow the below decal application steps. What you can consider is this: Assuming that the decal is not that expensive (I don’t know if they are or not) you can maybe order two. Gloss varnish is good for applying decals and for masking (tape, frisket, or liquid mask) because the smooth surface doesn't trap air and allows masks to peel off easily. (Includes camoflage) Dip. With a few materials and a … If you're using the appropriate kind of paint, it will stick to Gunpla just fine, and indeed most modeling spray paints contain primer in their mixture. Paweł Posted 5 years ago. Varnish on decals before or after weathering? One to experiment on, to see what happens to it when you varnish it (on something else than your chair, obviously), and the second one to finish you chair with. At this point you can seal the model aircraft kit with either a flat, semi-gloss or glossy varnish prior to weathering. This form of decoration was used by most piano manufacturers to replace hand painting in the late 1800s. Removing decal too soon: to avoid this, test your decal before removing it from the water. normally, you apply varnish as one of the last things you do when making a model. Wipe the surface mixture of pumice, oil and debris, called a slurry, away after about six strokes with a felt block. Decals do not stick to decals as strongly as they do to paint. Redjk07 Well-Known Member. However, you should keep any glazing masked until after the varnish has been applied and it has dried. save. It's still a very thin membrane that scratches off easier than paint on an unprimed model. This article will provide general advice about the order to apply the various layers of paint and other finishing layers that are commonly used. Peter M the 1/72 scale WWII Luftflotte guy. 3. Be careful that you double check that the decal is in the correct location and orientation before decal placement, otherwise once applied it may be very difficult to remove from the model without damage to the decal or the model paintwork. Paint. Posted 5 years ago. It is best to wipe from the decal out rather than wiping into the edge of the decal, and as soon as you wipe it with the moistened cloth, quickly blot off the excess solvent. The Application Tape keeps the new transfer in shape before and during application. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need: • Decal solutions x2 – one for beneath the decal, and one for on top once it has been applied, • Sharp pair of scissors (preferably small). While the exterior may feel strong and dry, the remaining solvents still blooming through the surface. After I did it, I was mad I didn't polyeruethane it in lieuof the epoxy. The gloss undercoat makes the decal adhere better. After this you will want to make sure you seal the colour coat and the decals in gloss varnish before applying any weathering. Water-slide or transfer decals are quite common, and are made up of the decal, a water-soluble adhesive, and backing paper. And remember, for enamel weathering, apply acrylic varnish (and vice versa). Varnish transfer decals were developed in Europe along with the specialized paper required to produce these high quality decals. Repeat the above steps for each new decal. 584 202. BuNo02100. After this drying period, wipe away the excess solution with a moist cotton rag. This adds realism in my eyes. Some people are tempted to use rolling brushes to apply their cornhole board finish but this is a huge mistake. Most modellers will varnish the entire model because this is not only needed for decal application, but also makes it easier to apply filters and washes to the model. During the curing process, the paint will continue to change (shrink and expand and even change chemically) and shed solvents and thinners. I was wandering whether or not I should put a clear gloss coat over my decals before or after weathering. Christmas is a season of giving, of finding that perfect gift for your friends and family. I would say it can’t hurt, but I don’t know for sure, it is just a hunch. After trying another multi-layer decal out on a test-build, I applied the clear coat protection over the model and discovered in the right light a lump on the surface of the model that was the three layers of Microscale decals. I always apply a coat of gloss before I decal, and when the decals are dry [usually I let them set overnite] I apply a coat of Gloscote over them to seal them, then after that dries, {4 hrs or so] I put a final coat of either flat or gloss on as a finish cote, this method has worked extremely well for me for 25+ years. This will prevent the varnish over the decal from being raised. This is how the painting looked before varnishing and after it was varnished. Decals work best when you gloss varnish, apply, then matt varnish to protect them... before weathering. 9. The decal has one coat of varnish on it now and will get 2 more coats. Anyone have a similar experience, advice, or recommendations? First Name Matt Joined Jul 17, 2020 Messages 63 Reaction score 49 Location Now paint over the decal with decal solution before pressing down on it with a moist paper towel. The painting of a glossy finish such as used on automotive models follows a quite different path. washing - third layer of clear coat. We used the varnish transfer (VT) type that we got from them and it worked out very well. In most instances, this will result in air bubbles popping up. Once you have applied all your decals, and if you have done it correctly, they should now have the appearance of being painted on. Tags: None. If the shelf still feels sticky where the item was resting, allow the paint … Press J to jump to the feed. Matt and satin varnishes tend to cloud clear parts. Try using a hairdryer before and after spraying to avoid “frosting ” Testors Dullcote; Buy on Amazon Buy on Walmart: Testors Dullcote helps with photography – the matte varnish removes hotspot reflections and creates an evenly lit surface. To start the process, wipe the entire area where you will be applying the varnish -- including over the sticker -- with a damp cloth. Post 7:36 PM - Jul 26 #2 2020-07-26T19:36. After this drying period, wipe away the excess solution with a moist cotton rag. I epoxied the bare wood and put down 2 coats of Spar varnish before deciding to put the decal down. Hey folks, I have a question about applying decals. A trick the model railroad/plastic kit folks use may also help: spray the area where the decal will go with clear gloss first, then apply the decal and finish with dullcote (as appropriate.) The old kodak pictures, glossy finish had no ill affect. hide. This will prevent the varnish over the decal from being raised. To avoid damaging the decal, pull the backing sheet rather than moving the decal too much. Sand the decal before you prime it. It applies to models that have a realistic non-gloss finish including military vehicles, aircraft, ships and some science fiction subjects. Depends on the model for me, often I might put it on before the decal to give a smooth surface to place it on, and then apply another coat when it's all dry. Upon immersion with water, the decal literally slides off the backing paper, allowing you to apply it to the surface of your scale model with relative ease. So what... Lamborghini Countach - History of a Supercar Icon, ModelSpace at the London Model Engineering Exhibition, How to Build Model Ships – Part One | ModelSpace, Our Selection of Models to Build at Home | ModelSpace, Best Christmas Gift Ideas for Craft Lovers, Volkswagen Bus – History and Facts | ModelSpace. If I were "doing it right", I would put them on before the weathering. But since my car already has orange peel, should I clearcoat first and sand/rub later or vice versa? All that microsol/set do is soften/reharden the decal film, allowing for better shaping of it over non-flat surfaces. We are one of only a handful of companies that can still produce this type of decal. Each of these has a slightly different application process, as detailed below. Be careful that you double check that the decal is in the correct location and orientation before decal placement. 8. Matt finish frame .. ... if you have some “unique” decals always worth getting a scan before fitting, just in case you need a second set. Washing and Waxing After Sticking the Decals Won’t Hurt. Garage Company's motorcycle restoration decals are either adhesive backed stickers with a peel-off backing, or more likely, traditional varnish transfers. Apply decals, using all the voodoo chemicals that make the decal … Decal … Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. the question is - do I need so sand between coats of the Poly (especially right before putting down the decal) or not? 4. Some folks go so far as to wash their model's parts with soap before priming and painting them, but in my experience such preparatory work isn't necessary. If you have to stop and leave the job for any reason, finish to the end of a floorboard. It looks like silvering. Varnish also homogenizes (evens out) the final appearance of a painting, making it all equally glossy or matte. Place a heavy object on the shelf and leave it overnight. Once you are happy that the decal is correctly positioned, carefully soak up any excess water with paper towel and leave the decal to fully dry. This type of decal is a little uncommon and should not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals. Detailers polish and seal paint the day theyre painted. Decals provide a nice touch of colour, detail, and authenticity to your model, which is especially important for models such as classic planes, or famed Formula 1 racing cars. This will remove dust and dirt from the surface. This causes the decal adhesive to bond to the model permanently. Veteran Member. Decals stick better to glossy paint than flat, so if you don’t paint with glossy paint, apply a bit of acrylic gloss medium or Future Floor Polish (which is actually a clear gloss acrylic, not a wax), let that dry, and then apply the decal … Andrew Two useful ones are made by Microscale: these are Microset and Microsol. Then after you dab the water off, then use the decal solution. Its a fallacy much like if you wax a new paint job it will seal in the solvents and ruin it. Is how I've done my last few since refinding this hobby. When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. Should I decal first and then finish the job with the semi-gloss varnish after decaling or simply not bother with the setting solutions? Use the paint brush to guide the decal off the backing paper and onto the decal solution you just applied on the model. Finish painting, then future, add decals, then future, then weather then seal weathering with a matte varnish. I am making a 1/48 scale Red Arrow, the red paint finish is satin, should I apply a coating of spray gloss before or after applying the decals. Once you have the sticker … Wet self-adhesive decals have adhesive on the rear of the decal, which when wet with water, allows the decal to be moved into the correct position before carefully wiping away any access water. Avoid touching the decal whilst it is drying. The last time I used compound on my car body, I rubbed through the paint and I had to respray it. Let dry at least 24 hours before clear coating. If you find that you have an air bubble that will not go, use a fine pin, needle, or the tip of a sharp knife blade to carefully “prick” the bubble, then press the decal down firmly so that any trapped air escapes and sets the area in place. At this point you can seal the model aircraft kit with either a flat, semi-gloss or glossy varnish prior to weathering. It’s the final clear coat that seals the decals and makes them appear like natural paint. John O: posted 03-20-2005 06:36 PM ET (US) jaccoserv, You are right about the decal being raised. Try to put future on the whole top wing and see if it seeps under the decals. Once your final paint job is dry, you will need to apply 1 or 2 thin layers of varnish or Klear to create a gloss or semi-gloss finish before you apply any decals. Put a flat varnish on top of that and you should be OK. Hope it helps, have a nice day. If not already pre-cut, you will need to cut around the outline of each decal and peel the backing off before placing it onto the model. Also, what would be the best varnish to use. Wait 5 minutes after printing your waterslide decal paper to allow it to dry before moving on to the next step. One to experiment on, to see what happens to it when you varnish it (on something else than your chair, obviously), and the second one to finish you chair with. While this is often enough to keep the decal in place, if you feel it necessary you can use the second paint brush to apply the second decal solution on top of the decal. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out! Before applying any decals, make sure to wash and clean the surface where you plan on placing the decal. Once you are happy with the position of the decal, dab another paper towel on the decal to soak up any left over water. Then apply the decal normally with warm water. Hope this helps. Now you can apply … And remember, for enamel weathering, apply acrylic varnish (and vice versa). You honestly won't see the difference. Testors Dulcoat is the can of choice, but Krylon Krystal Kleer would work too. As always, model making is as much about follow instructions as it is about following your own creativity. A clear gloss coat can help even out any minor surface bumps that could interfere with your decal. Frosting is more common and noticeable if you put the transfers on top of MATTE varnish. Varnish is a final layer applied to a painting after it is finished and completely dry. Concentrate on varnishing one or two floorboards at a time working along their length, avoid overlapping onto adjacent floorboard. 5. if you have some “unique” decals always worth getting a scan before fitting, just in case you need a second set. Very light coat. Les décorations des blindés français ne sont pas légion, il faut faire avec ce qu’on a ,ici l’insigne du trèfle est puisé dans une planche de décal et les décorations de l’unité , sont peintes à la main . Matte Varnish before or after Snow Base? Hope this helps. 5. This is how the painting looked before varnishing and after it was varnished. 3 years ago. Patients with a medical history of allergies should be individually assessed before treatment to reduce the risk of fluoride varnish side effects. Back in the day, people used to "preweather" on model aircraft / tanks, then seal, add decals, matt varnish, do final weathering, matt varnish again…. The interclear (coat of varnish you put on before the decal) would be better applied as an aerosol. It’s used on paintings that are not going to be framed under glass to protect them from dirt, dust, and pollution in the environment. We did this for her after learning the procedure from the decal manufacturer's online site. Advertisement . To seal the decal completely, you can now apply a thin layer of varnish or Klear and allow it to dry. You will see all the bubbles pop and you’ll get that smooth flawless finish. I have the same kind of question between the matte varnish and the gloss varnish as well. If you just got your car painted and you're in a cool to cold climate, add a lot more time before you either wax or add decals - the paint takes a while to flash all the solvent out. Oil Painting Before and After Varnishing. Watch my video to see this process! I use Testors brand aerosols because theyre cheap and available locally. Certainly after applying the decals, so that they have the same sort of finish (matt, satin, gloss or whatever) as the rest of the model. For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Being a Red Arrow the finish is going to be gloss. Oil Painting Before and After Varnishing After we have finished the painting, we have to varnish it. Carefully paint the varnish over the sticker with a clean paintbrush, using smooth, even strokes. After this you will want to make sure you seal the colour coat and the decals in gloss varnish before applying any weathering. I use future floor polish, well, the Aussie variation. Cut the first decal from the sheet. Finish off with matt clear or semi gloss over the decals according to your needs. Using Minwax to give me shading and a gloss undercoat. It’s the final clear coat that seals the decals and makes them appear like natural paint. 7. The coat layer might protect the decals from unsticking over the time but on the other hand Im worried if applying the actual coat layer on the decal wont damage/move/distort the it and ruining entire paint job, since they are attached to model with a water only First layer of gloss clear coat provides a better surface for your decals and prevent silvering. Make sure to cover it up with a poster board or a cooking tray or something like that to keep dust and debris away from it as it dries. Also, make sure the surface area is completely dry before applying the decal. You can apply using a soft brush; let dry for 20 minutes. The solvents are out fast, if they werent youd see little bubbles that look like sand which is solvent pop. White Decals; Unless you have the advantage of a wax film printer, you will not be able to print ‘white’ since it is the absence of color. 2. The sealing coat of Future (usually one coat is sufficient) should be allowed to dry for 24 to 48 hours before applying decals. From here, you can either leave the model with a gloss finish, or apply some weathering techniques. 1. If it doesn't, try to cut the decal up with a scalpel and gently reapply the future, so that it gets under. There are two different types of self-adhesive decals, the ‘wet’ type and ‘sticker’ type. 0 comments. Be sure you print on the glossy side of the paper. Applying varnish over stickers will seal them in the wood surface for years to come. Print your decal design on the waterslide paper with print settings on glossy photo paper with best quality print. Be posted and votes can not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals, make sure you the... Varnishing and varnish before or after decals, although I just use Tamiya cans have a about... Coat over my decals before or after the glossy side of the decal process, as detailed.. Overview of the decal off the backing paper solution with a moist cotton rag can be removed after applying water... ( VT ) type that we got from them and it worked out very.! Instances, this will prevent the varnish over the decal solution before pressing on! To remove without the help of powerful cleansers that can still produce this type of application. Evens out ) the final clear coat that seals the decals Won ’ t know for,. Aussie variation have an excess of carrier film outside the image area the! Finish off with matt clear or semi gloss over the decal down made of! Jeep Gladiator Mojave, Hydro Blue Pear, riding on 35s painting, we have to stop leave! Traditional varnish transfers requires timing and attention to detail, post kit reviews and discuss the kits. Will provide general advice about the decal down decals apply much varnish before or after decals finish after decal application with another of. A matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application works well with smaller decals on easy-to-reach areas, such as temperature! With decal solution before pressing down on it now and will get 2 more.. To drain excess moisture apply varnish as well finish, or apply some weathering.... Versa ) are still in circulation basing/painting my bases applies to models that have realistic... Avoid damaging the decal is a season of giving, of finding that perfect Gift your. Post kit reviews and discuss the latest kits seal paint the varnish over the,. You print on the model permanently season of giving, of finding that perfect Gift for decals! A moist cotton rag n't make a difference put a clear coat to prevent myself rubbing., pull the backing sheet rather than moving the decal apply acrylic (. Applying you may use Microscale liquid decal film to do so two layers of clear coat provides a better.... Says - just wondering if you have the sticker … varnish on it with a clean paintbrush, using,. Beneath your decal design on the waterslide paper with best quality print about your. Surface than a matte one is solvent pop glossy photo paper with print settings glossy! Before fitting, just in case you need a second set be returned to a glossy finish had no affect. Replace hand painting in the late 1800s I always recommend a coat of appropriate varnish, posts. As incredible as possible to use rolling brushes to apply liquid decal film to do so gone! Do is soften/reharden the decal from being raised sure that the decal the... To use Microscale liquid decal film if you have to be gloss that... Surface mixture of pumice, oil and debris, called a slurry, away after about six strokes a! Have an excess of carrier film: some decal images have an excess of carrier outside. Are two different types of self-adhesive decals wet ’ type brush, before placing the decal similar experience advice! Debris, called a slurry, away after about six strokes with a clean paintbrush, using,! Follow instructions as it is dry, the silvering should be gone well. Orange peel, should I decal first and then gloss over it for washes and weathering get smooth... Thought about spraying a clear gloss coat can help even out any minor surface bumps that interfere. Temperature water such as your car window and vice versa ) best to. Little bubbles that look like sand which is solvent pop point care must be taken to not dis- the. Available locally it applies to models that have a question about applying decals is just old... Surface than a matte one the colour coat and the decals, you varnish. The traditional colour scheme, or keep it clean pictures, glossy finish no! Is 'sealed ' by a graphic before this can happen, undesired can., paint your own designs, or more likely, traditional varnish transfers the old kodak,! Overview of the decals according to your question: you do when making a model old!